For a fun night in a traditional milonga in Buenos Aires, there are a few things to know.
Sounds pretty strict or very rigid, but when one begins to play, it's really worth the freedom it gives the woman (to choose something for each tanda with whom she wishes to dance, and thus, "build his evening"), as the man (do not take rakes in public and lose face, leaving the woman to show his desire to dance with him ...).
This description may seem a bit cruel, but in fact many tourists arrive as conquerors without having taken the trouble to learn about the customs of where they happen. They do not respect not use, do not respect the ball, knocking some, others take risks with their dancing ...
If such codes exist, they have their purpose and they show how the tango is a social dance. Also, what is the interest to do so many miles, to pay such a trip, if it is to make at home?
Before leaving for the first time, I asked some friends what they had Argentine as advice for me. They said: "Never accept an invitation to the table and let you invite and prompt with the cabeceo, you'll see, it lets you build your party." It was Chinese to me, but I I figured I would try to experiment with their advice.
The result of this experience, some travel and some discussions later!
table To avoid spending the evening standing in some traditional areas, it is best to book your table. If one only wants to dance with a partner, we take a table for two by stating that there is a couple.
If you want to dance with other people, it takes a separate place: one with men, the other with women.
Preparing porteños traditional dancers are often very sensitive to the care taken to go dancing. They appreciate that people dress (shirt and classic trousers or jacket, for some, keeping a little sought for each) and pay particular attention to odors. To feel flawless, many of them offered a shower after a late nap, and then some perfume (not too), deodorant and passage required by the toothbrush (see why the longer; ) Tic-Tacs and for smokers.
The arrival at the milonga - There is a deadline until which the reservation is valid. If you arrive later, in general, we find ourselves without a table or misplaced because regulars are already there or on the way and those who had not received our booked table.
- In general, the dancers arrive with their dancing shoes already on his feet. Those wishing to change shoes go mostly to the bathroom to do so. In general, the lady pee installed a chair to facilitate the operation (see below, under toilets;).
- After paying the entrance (prepared for the currency, it avoids wasting time and to be reset when you get a ticket for 100 pesos), it goes to the locker room if you have a bag a little bigger than a small handbag not to disturb traffic. In general, it is not possible to see the runway before paying (a few steps to El Beso, behind the door in Canning, behind the curtain ...). Maipu
Placement - At the very entrance to the dance hall or near the bar, one awaits the person who arranges the milonga so it puts us. In any case, it happens and you sit for a place in the open air.
In general, most of the good seats (near the runway) are taken or reserved and you would do anyway and move out (in the milongas, the regulars are all they know, they know who is new who's who ...). The person who comes up, asks for your name and takes you to the table reserved for you. If you are not experienced, you end up in 2nd or 3rd row of tables, that is to say in a place where it is difficult to invite and get invited.
- If you do not sit for two, it takes you on the side of the runway where the people of your sex. Unless you have friends official, it puts you at a table with people whose origin is evaluated and the level of dancing close to yours.
If you are a couple, it puts you at the bottom of the room because we know that you do not need to ask because you are together.
- Once placed, you sit still in line, that is to say that one does not advance the torso to be seen by the dancers / waitresses. We stay back against the back of the chair. Why stay online? Because as everyone has a chance to dance. When someone gets too far forward it says "slapped me," it means that we seek, which is not very sympathetic to others.
We'll see directly that you are not used (e) and there, only tourists or visitors you invite sharks, usually by coming directly to your table, which will support your reputation as a tourist and will reduce the number of people wishing to invite you, because you're not interested in you is to respect where you arrive.
- Most women put their purse on the table, the men leave their car keys and sometimes their phone. There are often two layers. Under the first, which is smaller, we put the raffle tickets and if we start before the draw, it gives her a raffle ticket (e) friend (s).
The invitation to dance The new "tanda" (a series of pieces of the same orchestra) has just begun. Hardly had the dancers they recognized the orchestra or the song they turn towards the person they think is appropriate for these series dancing with them. They are not ashamed to start, being first on the track and a time to dance alone. The runway was filled quickly and the presence of the dancers will soon make it impossible to invite is remote if our target is not close. The
cabeseo (pronounced cabésséau and there are several ways to write it) comes from the word Cabes, the head. The two people watching, the man lowered his head slightly by continuing to fix the woman in the eyes (sometimes with an air quite serious, but not mandatory). If she wants
dance with him, the woman replies with the same gesture of the head.
You can check out this video, but in my experience, the first nod made by the woman stems from the normal man and the woman replied in the mirror.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDbtXiB_b6s
The man gets up and comes to the table to find the woman. The woman expects to be at his table to rise, it avoids, in case it is in fact a neighbor who was designated, to lose face. In case of error, where we get up without being the nominee, I was told, despite what is said by Subsequently, the best shelter, they are the toilet.
If everything went well, the woman gets up (often, she takes off her dress / skirt of his post:), if any, they kiss (a peck on the cheek right) greet 's entwine and slowly begin to dance).
If you do not want to dance with the person who looks at you intensely, you do as if nothing had happened, as if you do not see it and you look elsewhere.
If the person continues to look at you, you continue to ignore.
must be clear in expressing his desire, but not heavy. If you want to dance with somebody, it is obvious that the person you have ever seen (e), go your way!
This means either that the person does not want to dance with you, or it has not seen you dance. You have expressed your desire, it was perceived by the other, let him do it now. He / she will not dance with you this tanda or maybe the next or the next ... allowed sufficient time to see and evaluate his desire. He came to wait a long time (several years), so somebody dance with me. So. As a tourist, each new residence is a new chance, which is not necessarily the case for people on the spot, however drawing from the best:)
The ball movement in The man has taken care to verify that it does not bother couples around before making his first step. He did not begin his dance by stepping aside in order to avoid "breaking the second line" dance. Once the line dance is chosen, it remains behind the same dancer throughout the tanda, except for someone who does not respect the ball, he then comes to find another couple to be in front or behind to avoid getting back into it.
It does not therefore lead us not on other lines of dance, as it does not back or that the couple are stuck in front.
Taking a risk with the dancer she used to know quite what it is. An error is possible, but a mindset that can lead to hurt the other dancers will be injured or feels and implies either that the woman stops dancing during the tanda, whether it be the last time they dance together . The
abrazo In traditional milongas, dance generally "apilado", that is to say against each other a little support, or "living room", that is ie against one another, but sometimes takes a little distance to do it with some comfort. If at any time one of two moves his arm in the back of the other, the other is supposed to move to mend his turn. This does not take it personally, it is natural to change positions and do not immediately say that everything is wrong. The move also shows that to each other as we seek the comfort level and that one is listening.
Where you put your hand may be crucial for people to accept or not to dance with you. In my case, if I see a boy leaves his hand down below the belt of other women, I find it hard to dance with him. Firstly because I do not necessarily want him to know what type of sub clothes I wear, but also because it may give the impression that anyone can touch my back, which is not the case;)
It's something unacceptable to many women, even if they like good person and would like to dance with if there was this "detail".
Between two dances porteños The talk between two dances, it's even an art. Man commits
often the conversation by asking for new and on each break is often he who raises. There are even some who say that the talk of the break may be a true reflection during the dance, to the point that they becomes difficult to be in it.
We talk face to face within inches of the face (about fifteen), hence the importance of Tic-tac on the table and the toothbrush mentioned above, particularly for smokers. Everyone feels good and each exception is misperceived. Some people dance again quickly while others continue to talk. If you start quickly, experience a variety of turns and small steps to do on site can be a great help because, in general, it does not change place. We must find a way to dance on the spot.
I have often wondered what those conversations. In general, I know more about my dancers in Buenos Aires than those I see in dance in Paris, precisely because of this habit.
Initially, young women were dancing with their mothers. The only time boys and girls were talking, it was between two dances. So it became an art to speak at the beginning of each dance (except the first if it is early tanda)
Currently, men and women are separated during the ball, is sometimes the only time to have an exchange or also the only moment of intimacy. Perhaps it is the elegance of another show that We also like as a person and not just as a dancer. If you dislike
ultimately not to dance with that person, either absolutely or on this occasion, the conversation may be a good way to limit the time to dance and then the inconvenience of this dance:)
stop dancing for a tanda If nothing special happens, you never stop to dance before the end of a tanda. It is necessary that the person is really unpleasant for us to stop. The tandas are 3 (waltzes and milongas only) or 4 pieces and which is often in Europe and the United States with the rule of 3 tangos minimum so as not to affront has equivalent dancing until the end of the tanda in the traditional milongas.
When we do not know if we would like to dance with somebody, you can do to make dance the last dance or the penultimate of the tanda. So if it's fun, it reinvents thereafter, if it is unpleasant, it has not lived it for too long for this to be problematic. It happens that some people, particularly in closed, we could really shake up and we caught a vertebra for the rest of the evening.
Stop dancing with someone when there really a "casting error" (the dance is wrong or there is no respect of the runway, we go into the other or the other moves his hand in places of your body or in a manner that bother you ...), may be a way to show that there is someone to be respect, which is respected by people who witnessed the scene.
If this happens to you and we'll let you plan: executive washroom!
The end of the tanda The last dance of the tanda happens. We thank You can find one last nice thing to say and it may mean that we could end up on the milongas or the Di Sarli .... and the man escorted the woman at his table.
It may seem strange, but after sharing something nice, intimate, even deeper, with a man and be alone in the middle of couples where the man accompanies a woman can give a real feeling of loneliness that was sometimes not want to to face again, even if the dance was fun. Some dancers do not dance with men who spare themselves the practice.
The tandas and cortina * Everyone then returns to his place and discussed with the neighbors. When the music sounded again, all heads turn once again and resumed the ride.
The rhythm of the music is generally as follows:
- 4 tangos of an orchestra
- Cortina *
- 4 tangos another orchestra
- Cortina
- 3 or sometimes 4 waltzes by Dj, normally one orchestra
- Cortina
- again tangos
2x4 - Cortina
- 3 milongas Again, normally one orchestra
- Cortina
- eventually, at some point in the evening, a tanda salsa / rock / cumbia is interposed after 2 sets of tangos and before 2 new series.
Normally, dance, dance three tandas up with someone. If you dance well, it can lead to confusion because it may mean that you no longer wish to limit the relationship to dance. The other will believe there are openings to go "drink coffee" (see below).
If this is not your intention, it could be related to the fact turning on the other, which may be in trouble if no action.
Moreover, as everyone sees almost everything, the dancers will stop to ask the woman (sacar a bailar) for the rest of the evening because they see that man has a purpose and they do not want to intrude on his land.
* Cortina music meaning that the tanda is over, everything except the tango: rock, salsa, film music ...
Toilets The place that we use, if any, retirement, this place is sometimes expected that someone leaves for a detail look in the mirror or unpleasant to I do not know what, this intimate space unlikely anywhere in the world classical is here guarded by industry professionals. The ladies toilet pee of the Belgian highway, public gardens and those of the larger hotels have everything to learn in the balls of the most popular milongas!
over-equipped, the guardian (ne) s of the temple are desperate to meet you: candies, chewing gum, aspirin, ibuprofen, rings, earrings, cigarettes, clothes and other things are on sale. Lipstick, toilet paper, deodorant, paper towel ... are available outside of the cabin.
With such a treasure, the keeper never leaves his temple. He looks at you you look, he hears your conversations with people of the same sex, knows your scent and your sounds the most intimate, your habits, your pettiness, your complicated by the glance at the mirror before you go ... In the high place of observation which is the milonga, lonely no respite is possible, even to the bathroom, often with no lock there ...
Traditionally we leave a tip on leaving, so for those who do not usually, it is not uncommon to say 2 weeks after the person who smiles at you that we have yet forgotten. Tipping is for the toilet paper that you sometimes directly delivered by hand, and the towel. The
mam 'and m'iseur pee normally pay, more or less officially, their right to work in these places. Sometimes they follow the organizers from one place to another, depending on the day.
The rocks and other salsas, chacareras ... is often frustrating, as a tourist who likes other dances, to sit for ten minutes watching the others dance while we know that this is the only series of the evening. Few tourists who dance something else, then one imagines that this is not our case. These come
tandas usually early in the last third of the evening, just before or after sorteo (ballot), often giving the right to a bottle of sparkling white wine they call Tchanpan (despite the assumed name, this has nothing a champagne:)
In general, people at the table or tables around to collect their tickets shared the lot and it gives her ticket to friends before leaving if it is before the draw.
The first time When in Buenos Aires for the first time, there maybe a few tourists and some Argentines who know us and we can invite. This means, if one wishes go to the places it's fairly traditional for us to show that we respect the codes in order to dance with people with whom one has no opportunity to dance elsewhere.
This takes time, energy and determination.
was probably easier a few years ago when there were fewer tourists can really dance with porteños whose purpose is to dance and not to offer courses or other services. Being recognized starts slowly and therefore it is better to try to spend at least 3 weeks to do substantive work.
Not to be sometimes affected by the failure dance as much as we would like, it may be wise to get enough sleep;)
It can also be good to lead a double life: it goes into the traditional dances and in places a bit more trendy to see friends, are program outputs, swimming pools, cafes ...
This shows the milonga and Buenos Aires as a place where one goes sociological to meet and talk with neighbors table. This may be a good way to stay loose and live a different experience from what we had planned, but who fills us with a much deeper way sometimes.
Tricks of Guider When you arrive in a traditional dance, as everyone knows, it is quickly noticed. The hardest thing is to have a first dance and for that, knowing someone is quite essential, but we shall return. Once the first series of dances performed, some tips may be welcome:)
Among these, in general, as a tour, I found more enjoyable to travel outside rather than on other lines the ball. However, when we do not know someone and you do not know yet if it will work, which seems appropriate is to do the first dance to the inside of the track, hidden by the first lines like this if it does not work very well, "failure" remains discreet.
If things go well, the dancer returns to the outside line from the second dance. It eliminates the need for couples to where he does not see and it allows women who do not dance in time to see what he can dance and can invite him thereafter.
traditions of the milonga The new pairs of shoes There are quite a few dancers who have a little tradition when they have a new pair of shoes, they give the name of the person with whom they danced wearing them for the first time.
Birthdays When someone celebrates his birthday in a milonga or has had a birthday recently (it is often friends who snitch by telling the organizer), it is customary to to pause the show to announce the event. It then passes a waltz on which those who are friends, good friends and dancers of the usual person will dance with her a few steps. It usually starts with someone close, then another person comes on the track and it / he who has his birthday and goes from arm to arm!
If it's someone you enjoy, do come and take a few steps, because it is better to have too many people that have few people who venture out of shyness.
Paragraphs coming more one writes, the more we have things to share, so I will continue to supplement the text, including the themes below.
- choose a dance partner
- the qualities of the tourist tango (persistence, patience, observation, humor, small talk ...)
- How to react when you come to invite you to the table
- how, when it was not us who had been invited
- How to prepare your trip
- meet people for not being alone and throw the ball on the track
- The "coffee"
Acknowledgements I thank everyone who helped me to live this experience, shared their passion (particularly Sandra, Gerard, Vivi, Victoria, Noemi, Pedro, Claudio, Ricardo, Diana. ..), all those with whom I shared a slice of life that allowed me to discover other aspects of Argentina (Nicolás Guillermo, Vilma, Sophia Martin, Eloixa, Maia ...) .
Maybe I'm coming for the first time to dance, now is especially for those who have been generous in spending time with me and sharing their city, their culture and dance I come back every year .
Buenos Aires Arriving is the language that welcomed me, filled chechecheche, taxis that address out of the airport kiosks that sell candy to unity , cartoneros that empty the trash ... Continued ...
Video I found this video one night after a bad dream. She plunged back into some very nice memories, watch my two favorite places (start: Maipu 444; 39s, El Beso) and the tango as I like to share in Buenos Aires ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9EySQAQ0is&feature=player_embedded 
Jo Taboulet, friend, local figure, and president of the legendary Festival of Science Fiction Roanne " Rhone Alps SF" (First edition: 1979!) Is also the instigator of Association La Motte's book and Village Ambierle book, medieval village close to Renaison (42). Amateur 
is slowly beginning to appear pre-program the second edition. 
